February 6, 2020

3422 BULGARIA - Old winemaking


Grape growing and wine production have a long history in Bulgaria, dating back to the times of the Thracians, who used wine not only as a drink on the table but channel between people and gods. It was a divine drink. Zagreus, somehow the Thracian analog of the Greek god Dionysus, was worshiped by the Thracians as the god of wine and merriment. Unfortunately, the tradition was interrupted for 500 years, how long this region was part of the Ottoman Empire, a state dedicated to expanding the world of Islam.

The crushing and pressing is the first step in turning grapes into wine. Though they might seem interchangeable, they are two different processes. Crushing simply breaks grape berries, allowing the juice, pulp, and seeds to mingle with the skins and stems of the grapes. Pressing, on the other hand, is the process that separates the grape juice from the fiber and other solids that make up a berry. Sometimes, they are done at the same time, though they can be separated by a few hours or days depending on the style of wine being made.

First, winemakers decide whether or not to crush grapes “whole cluster,” wine speak for the stems intact. In red and orange wines, stems add extra tannin and structure to developing wines. For delicate white wines and some light reds, these grippy tannins are undesirable, so winemakers separate the stems and berries before crushing. The simplest and most ancient crushing strategy is the whole-cluster version known as foot treading, which is anything but the homey, silly dance most drinkers imagine.

Often, three or four men or women will stomp the grapes for several hours, because grapes are far more dense than they seem and foot treading is a solid workout. As the grape juice and solids are mixed thoroughly by marching humans, flavors and chemical compounds are distributed through the juice. As grape skins are broken, their sweet juices come into contact with grape skins, absorbing the flavor, colors, and tannins crucial for fine wines. Meanwhile, juices are also exposed to yeasts, either in the air or added by winemakers, that induce fermentation.

About the stamp, issued to mark the 180th Anniversary of St. George's Church - Kavarna, Bulgaria, I wrote here

References
The crush is the first step in turning grapes into wine, by Laura Burgess - vinepair.com

Sender: Cătălin Jucătoru
Sent from Madara (Shumen / Bulgaria), on 04.09.2018

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